The home of Van's Instant Gun Blue and Arrow Wood Finish!

   MPI    

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This page is dedicated to instructions for use of the
Van's Bluing, Arrow Wood Finish, and Arrow Brass Cleaner.


 VAN'S INSTANT GUN BLUE INSTRUCTIONS

 ONLINE HELP : http://.vansblue.com

 


Degrease:  Before you begin bluing, make sure to degrease with a good solvent.  If you purchased the bluing kit, a bottle of “CitriGun” was included as a degreaser.  Alternatively, you may use a good solvent such as M.E.K., Acetone, Brake parts cleaner, or clear PVC pipe cleaner (not the purple stuff).  Wash the metal thoroughly with your degreaser.  If the firearm is extremely dirty, use a hair dryer to heat the metal and open the pores before degreasing.    If after applying the bluing, you see spotting, or light areas, try changing to another degreaser.  Some synthetics can not be cut by all solvents, i.e.:  If you are using an Acetone, switch to Brake parts cleaner, if you’re using “CitriGun” try switching to the PVC pipe cleaner, etc…  No solvent or cleaner will remove 100% of the synthetics 100% of the time. Wipe dry, then proceed to step two: Bluing.

 

Bluing: After the Firearm is thoroughly degreased apply the Van’s Instant Gun Blue. To Restore: If surface rust is present – wash metal with fine steel wool dipped into the bluing. Wipe this off and then proceed to the bluing steps below without fixing the texture. To Repair: Fix texture (scratches, pits, etc.) by sanding or steel wooling until you match the surrounding area. * The more exact the match in texture – the more perfect the bluing!  Apply the bluing and rub it in, keeping it wet. Always apply with a soft bristle toothbrush.  Cotton swabs, paper towels and cloth contain lanolin, dyes, perfumes, etc., and may prevent the bluing from working to your satisfaction. The object is to soak the bluing in for 3 to 5 minutes. The longer you soak it the darker it gets. If you stop too soon, you can apply more. If any “spotting” occurs, rub the area with #0000 steel wool dipped in the bluing, wipe off and reapply bluing with a toothbrush. When you achieve the desired color, wipe dry with a paper towel, and neutralize by rubbing in a petroleum-based oil. (Not WD-40, or other synthetics…they don’t neutralize the acid!) We suggest “Supr-Fine” available from MPI, but any petroleum-based oil will suffice.

 

Top coat wax:  This can’t be stressed enough:  Wax Your Gun!!  It may sound out of step to what you’re used to hearing but have you ever heard someone say:  “I oiled it, put it in the closet, pulled it out a week later and it was rusted!  But I oiled it!!”  Oil floats on water…wax doesn’t.  If you apply a thin coat of wax over your barrels, they won’t rust even if ya drop ‘em in salt water!  We now carry bottles of liquid style carnauba called “TopIt” that is tough enough to stand up to 100° saltwater, and even fresh blood, and is still flexible enough to be used on stocks.  Take a small amount of wax (just a drop or two for one side of a long-gun) and buff onto the wood and metal.  Allow the wax to haze up and then buff off with a soft cloth.  That’s all there is to it.   When taking a firearm into the field, apply another light coat to ensure that the wax is performing at peak.


Hints & Tips

       Heating the metal up with a hair-dryer will speed up the bluing process. Prime temperature is 90F to 140F.

       Parts may also be dipped as opposed to rubbing the bluing in. When dipping check progress in 30 second intervals.                   It is better to evaluate progress rather than do damage by going too far.  As the bluing becomes used it will                   slow down and parts can be dipped longer.     

      This bluing reacts to ferrous metals only. It will not work on aluminum or some alloys. If it can rust - it can be blued.
                  High Temperature engine paint works well on aluminum, alloys and stainless steel.
     
      Texture shows. If the metal is rougher, the bluing will look duller. The shinier the metal, the shinier the bluing.                    Glass beading or sandblasting before bluing makes a satin finish similar to Parkerizing.

       Do not use "Break Free", CLP, or metal polishes over any blue. They remove both small amounts of metal and bluing.
                             Bluing may be buffed with fine steel wool (#0000) to brighten.

      This bluing will not work on a GLOCK slide unless it is sanded down to bare metal. The Tenifer  finish is still there
               even when it is worn down to white. That is why it doesn't rust. Van's only works when it touches the metal. Use
                        the High Temp engine paint to save time.


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For more detailed instructions

Online help: http://vansblue.com

 

FOR ADDITIONAL INFORMATION, an MSDS, or TECHNICAL HELP:                    

Call 1-608-756-0044 Tuesday through Thursday




 

Arrow Hand-Rubbed Wood Finish Instructions




ARROW WOOD FINISH contains oils, which penetrate the wood, a natural filler that fills the pores and scratches in the wood, and is a flexible sealer to weatherproof the wood. Nothing else is required. Any type of stain may be used if desired before applying Arrow. (Oil based, Water based, or solvent based stains)

            The first applications penetrate the wood. Each additional application attaches itself to the former. The result is a finish that is actually bonded inside the wood. This is not a hard, brittle finish that cracks, chips, or peels, but a resilient finish that withstands hard use indoors or out. It is also excellent for spot repairs, touch-up, or restoring and protecting other finishes.  SHAKE WELL BEFORE USING.

 

SURFACE PREPARATION: On unfinished wood, sand surfaces with 320 to 400-grit paper. If stain is required, apply according to manufacturers instructions. To check whether you need to stain, apply a drop of rubbing alcohol to the wood. The color it is when it is wet, is the color you will get when you finish it with Arrow. Let the wood dry and proceed as usual. If ARROW is to be applied to a previously finished wood: A) If the old finish is peeling, cracking, blistering, or chipping, it would be best to strip it off to obtain the strongest results. B) If the previous finish is just damaged or worn, or has lost its luster, ARROW may be applied over the old finish. Use exactly the same instructions for applying to raw wood. C) If the previous finish is oil-soaked, darker than it was originally, or gummy, it needs to be cleaned with Klean & Brite or stripped before applying Arrow Wood Finish.

 

APPLICATION: DO NOT POUR FINISH DIRECTLY ON WOOD. Spread a few drops in the palm of your hand or on a cloth pad and rub thoroughly into the wood. USE SPARINGLY. Next, take a piece of “wet-or-dry” abrasive paper, moisten it lightly with the wood finish and use it to “wet-sand” the finish into the wood. When the finish becomes stiff or rolls up (as it dries) discard the paper and completely rub the surface dry with your hand or a cloth. Allow the finish to cure 24 hours between coats. Each application with the abrasive paper will fill the pores but will leave a satin finish. The coarser the paper, the more filling you will achieve but the duller the finish will be. 320 or 400 grit paper leaves a matte finish (like military non-reflective finishes). 600 to 800 grit will leave a lustrous satin finish. If a higher gloss is required, when ALL the pores have been filled by using the paper…either go to 1000 grit and above (available in Auto Supply stores) or begin to apply by hand or cloth WITHOUT paper rubbing. These coats should be EXTREMELY light coats, always rubbed dry by hand or cloth. More coats by hand will create a higher gloss. IMPORTANT NOTE: If a little bit is good – LESS is better! Each coat takes LESS than the previous coat. Always wear the paper out – going to fresh paper too often prevents maximum filling. NOTE: To apply ARROW over a stain – do a couple coats just by hand to create a layer over the stain. Then, if necessary apply another coat or two with extremely fine paper (1000 grit & up) to smooth and to adjust shine.

 

ADDITIONAL TECHNIQUES:

A) For maximum filling on raw wood, do not raise the grain for “whiskering”. Apply ARROW to the wood and allow it to sit for 5-10 minutes without rubbing. Grain will rise. NOW rub the finish in (as above). The whiskers become part of the filler (and they have to match…it’s the same wood). 


B) To clean a dirty or darkened finish without stripping (use Klean & Brite or..) apply ARROW heavier than usual, rub with fine abrasive paper, BUT DO NOT ALLOW TO DRY - ADD MORE FINISH IF NEEDED. After rubbing a short while, wipe loosened finish off with a paper towel, and buff dry. Greases, old tacky finish, or surface damage will be removed. Cure for 24 hours and finish as usual.


C) Dents in wood can be raised by applying water to the wood, cover the area with a damp cloth, and apply heat (as with a steam iron) to make the water steam. Repeat process with a clean cloth until wood no longer swells. Allow the wood to dry and then sand-fill-finish.


D) To prevent white-line scratches on urethane or epoxy finishes (or other high gloss finishes), apply ARROW very sparingly just with your hand and rub dry (no paper). Finish will remain shiny but won’t scuff or powderize.


E) To finish checkering, carving or other textures without filling or rounding the edges, apply with a toothbrush and brush in well. Wipe excess off and allow to cure. 


F) To finish spindles, legs and other round items…ARROW may be rubbed in with a cloth like the old shoeshine cloth. Treat cloth with the wood finish, wrap around the spindle, and pull back and forth.


G) Flat surfaces (table tops, cupboard doors, etc.) may be finished by applying ARROW and rubbing the wet finish in with an orbital, or palm sander with fine abrasive paper…rather than by hand. When cured ARROW may also be power buffed with a loose wheel or sheepskin buffer at low RPMs to add additional luster.

 

 

 

FOR PRODUCT SUPPORT: Call 1-608-756-0044 Email [email protected]



Arrow Brass and Copper Cleaner Instructions



 

ATTENTION: This product contains acid and can stain skin and clothing. Avoid contact with skin, eyes, and clothing. See cautions on label. Use according to directions. Keep out of reach of children. Wear rubber gloves to prevent burns or stains. This product only works on Brass, Copper, or Bronze. It is not intended for silver.

 

DILUTE: ARROW BRASS CLEANER is concentrated. Mix one (1) part cleaner with six (6) parts water to obtain a working solution. (Example: One cap full of cleaner to six caps full of water.) Product may be stored both in the concentrate and dilute forms as long as it is unused (clean). The portion that comes in contact with metal during the cleaning process is contaminated, and though it may be reused for a time, it will not maintain its strength in storage.

To clean “green” corroded brass it may be necessary to mix the product with 4 parts water to one part cleaner to obtain a stronger solution.

 

DIPPING: For cleaning small parts or brass cartridges:  1) Divide parts into 3 to 6 equal batches. (The dirtier the metal, the fewer the batches.) ARROW will clean about 4 or 5 batches of cartridges with average tarnish. 2) Put one batch into a plastic or glass container and pour enough of the diluted cleaner in to just cover those shells. 3) Soak brass for 15 to 30 seconds and check for cleanliness with a strainer or slotted spoon. 4) If they are clean enough, remove and rinse in clear water. Note: The next batch of brass put into the solution will take longer to get clean. Let the metal tell you when to pull it by checking it periodically. 5) Repeat the process until the solution doesn’t clean the metal satisfactorily in 15 minutes of soaking. 6) Rinsing the brass in hot water makes them dry faster. Discard used solution down any drain; it is not hazardous material. Brass is ready to be reloaded - or polished. To obtain a high shine, tumble in dry media or buff lightly with #0000 steel wool. The brass cartridges will handle the same in every regard whether they are left dull or polished to a shine. If you de-prime the cartridges before dipping, you will clean the primer pocket and the powder residue inside as well.

 

ARROW CLEANS INSIDE AND OUT, LEAVES NO RESIDUE, DOESN’T DAMAGE BRASS, AND WORKS FAST!

 

FOR PIECES TOO LARGE TO DIP: ARROW BRASS CLEANER may be applied with #0000 steel wool, a brush, or a cloth patch. Wipe onto item to be cleaned and rub gently, refreshing your applicator with solution periodically. When clean, wipe excess off with paper towel, and rinse with water. Rinsing may be accomplished by using a dampened paper towel. Note: When no more yellow appears on the towel, rinsing is complete. Allow the metal to dry. Buff to shine with #0000 steel wool if necessary or use polish if desired. Arrow will clean better (faster and more thoroughly) than polishes – but polishes used to put a shine on after cleaning with Arrow, work astoundingly quickly.

 

ADDITIONAL NOTES:

A) If the metal has been coated with a preservative (shellac, acrylic, lacquer, etc.) - remove coating with mineral spirits, lacquer thinner, or other solvent BEFORE using ARROW BRASS CLEANER.


B) To preserve the brass or copper (Display pieces - not ammunition to be fired), after cleaning, coat with a thin layer of CARNAUBA WAX such as an automotive wax. Carnauba wax will not yellow or flake like the “clear coat” sprays and dips, and is excellent protection against tarnish and corrosion. We also sell an excellent carnauba for this purpose called “Top-it” wax.


C) Leaving items that have been dipped in their “frosty” looking condition will NOT change their performance, but WILL preserve them for an extended time.


D) Used solution that is becoming weak may be made more effective by warming it up. (Not scalding hot, but warm to the touch.)

 

 

FOR ADDITIONAL INFORMATION, an MSDS, or TECHNICAL HELP:

Orders: 1-800-215-2644  Information: 1-608-756-0044